The solution
In 1990s India, men's vests and briefs were a push business: shopkeepers pulled them out of drawers in plastic wrap, there was no display, no brand pull, and quality was abysmal — in a country that was already one of the world's largest textile exporters, with hosiery clusters like Tirupur supplying the world. Local brands VIP, Rupa, Lux and Dollar competed in the mid-market and left the premium end empty.
Jockey International wanted an India presence, and the Genomal family — four generations of Jockey partners whose father had licensed the brand in the Philippines in 1959 — held the right of first refusal. Sunder Genomal took the licence in 1994-95 and set two unusual rules: nothing would be outsourced (95% of products are made in Page's own plants, eventually 11 factories with 18,000 workers), and innerwear would never be sold the way India sold it. Page briefed 100 top retailers across seven cities before launch with display fixtures and point-of-sale material; retailers queued to sign up.
The category retail is what changed. Jockey put packaged underwear on open display, priced at least 20% above Lux, Rupa and Dollar, backed by an FMCG-style distributor network that reached 35,000 retail outlets in 1,200 cities and towns, 726 large-format stores and 223 exclusive brand outlets. In 2008 Page renewed the Jockey licence for 50 years to 2058, 'thereafter to be continued in perpetuity every 50 years', and added Speedo in 2011.
The premium held. Page was profitable from its third year, listed in 2007 at ₹360 a share, and a ₹1 lakh investment grew to about ₹36 lakh in eight years; by late 2020 the stock was up 5,550% since IPO and Jockey had become India's single largest-selling apparel brand, with 19-20% of men's premium innerwear. Revenue reached ₹1,543 crore by FY2015 — built almost entirely inside one category that everyone else still sold from a drawer.
What it achieved
Display underwear like soap; never discount it
Why it worked
Innerwear's low perceived value was a merchandising problem, not a demand problem: display and packaging created the brand pull that loose plastic-wrapped stock could never generate.
Owning 95% of manufacturing let Page hold an international brand's quality standard — the precondition for charging a 20% premium without discounting.
The FMCG-style distributor network gave shelf access at a scale local innerwear brands, who sold through wholesale channels, had never built for this category.
The 50-year rolling licence made the family's discipline credible: there was no exit window in which to milk the brand, so investing in it was rational.
What can be applied
A 'boring' category is often just a badly merchandised one. Move the product from under the counter to a displayed brand shelf and the premium follows — if quality control keeps it there.
Aftermath
Jockey's head start proved durable — competitor Van Heusen innerwear needed two years to reach ₹200 crore of revenue that Jockey took nine years to reach at half the pace, because Page had defined how the category was sold. Tommy Hilfiger nibbled at the top end and Levi's, Hanes and Fruit of the Loom arrived later, but analysts still measured them all against Page's playbook. Fortune India noted in 2020 that Jockey still carried a premium of at least 20% over Indian mainline innerwear brands, with women's innerwear — only 5-6% share — named as the next frontier.
FOLLOW THE EVIDENCE
The sources
- Jockey: What lies beneath fortuneindia.com
- The 'inner' secret to success: Sunder Genomal's Page Industries businesstoday.in